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So, in the main OV3 cannot make your images better than the camera can do anyway, if you set up the camera for jpegs correctly. If happy to use OV3 then definitely follow Robin Wong and see how he uses it. Usually the idea of buying other raw converters is to attempt to do better than OV3 can do and I find that with DxO. It just provides more options to try in post processing as opposed to wasting time fiddling (and maybe guessing) with camera settings while shooting. So it can't make the images "better" than what any of the in-camera settings can do anyway. Also acts as a comparison tool to compare to other raw converters. So for me it is a tool to explore a raw file to see what would be the best jpeg settings for the camera. I have plenty of time if it helps make my pictures better!īasically OV3 is duplicating what the camera does. I already know it is "slow and clunky" and don't care about that. More advice needed from those who use it. Some converters like OV3 obey the directions exactly, other converters ignore that contained exif information and do their own thing. Raw files contain the raw sensor data with all the camera settings within the exif data. If all this is true, are the files really raw? So if there is sharpening applied too, you'd have to be careful not to add too much sharpening as to cause edge halos etc.
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as the jpegs and then you can work from there. The raw files opened in OV3 have the same colors etc. Let me see if I understand this right from advice I have acquired here.
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